Mt Pumori Trek

Walking tour in Kathmandu

Languages: English

  A Classic "Climb-able" Ice and Snow Mountain Located Next to Everest

1. Leader: Daniel Mazur, Pumori 3 time summiter, climber-leader-organizer of Everest, K2, and 12 "eight-thousand-metre-peaks", along with Jay Reilly, 2 time Pumori and 2 time Ama Dablam summiter;
2. Climbing Sherpas for the group;
3. Transport to basecamp to/from Kathmandu (including round trip domestic flights), for you and equipment, including camping and meals on trek;
4. Yak transport of all equipment from Lukla to and from basecamp;
5. Three hot meals per day on trek, in basecamp and advanced basecamp. Comfortable tables and chairs and dining tent in basecamp;
6. Skillful basecamp and advanced basecamp cooks;
7. All mountain, basecamp and advanced basecamp food;
8. All permit fees and liaison officers;
9. Use of group gear and supplies: rope, ice, rock, and snow anchor protection; basecamp and altitude tents; cookers, fuel, high-altitude food, walkie-talkie radios, satellite telephone, etcetera;
10. Emergency equipment and supplies: medical oxygen, gamow bag, basecamp medical kit, high-altitude medical kits, etcetera;
11. In addition to our top-quality high-altitude tents, we now provide an individual tent (1 tent per person) in basecamp.

1. Coordinator: Daniel Mazur, 3 time Ama Dablam summiter, climber-leader-organizer of Everest, K2, and 12 "eight-thousand-metre-peaks";
2. All permit fees and liaison officers;
3. Emergency equipment and supplies: medical oxygen, gamow bag, basecamp medical kit, high-altitude medical kits, etcetera;
4.  Access to team fixed ropes and camps (sites, not tents), coordinated with our own "full-service" climbing team.
5. Other necessary services and supplies (ie: extra yaks, trek services, basecamp meals, high altitude services and equipment), may be purchased and hired at minimal expense. We offer basic climb "packages" as noted below, or, we can furnish individual items such as tents, stoves, gas, food, etcetera.

Leadership: During this full-service expedition, you will benefit from the leadership provided by  Daniel Mazur, 4 time summiter of Pumori, climber-leader-organizer of Everest, K2, and 12 "eight-thousand-metre-peaks". He is a relaxed, friendly and well organized person, and a highly-skilled professional with 25 years experience in getting people to the summit and back down with the highest attention to safety. Jay Reilly will also be leading. He is a professional climbing instructor and a real gentleman, skilled at getting people up and down the mountain safely. Jay is now the team leader for our leader in training programme. By the way, we have conducted more than eleven 7000 metre peak expeditions, and consider ourselves specialists in identifying, organizing expeditions to the world's 7000ers, and getting teams safely to the summit and back down
Trekking: For our full-service members, the cost of this expedition includes one of the most beautiful treks in the world. For more information and photos, please visit our Pumori trek site: Pumori Trek.

Sherpas and Equipment Transport: Our expedition includes transport of all of your equipment from Kathmandu to basecamp, and returned to Kathmandu. While climbing on the mountain, we DO NOT ask our full-service members to carry heavy group equipment (although it is an option if you really want to), such as tents, rope, fuel, food, etcetera. We employ climbing sherpas, and high-altitude porters, to carry group equipment and supplies. For a minimal expense, we can also provide personal sherpas, and climbing-guides, to individual members who wish to have their own private sherpa or personal climbing-guide. We encourage you to consider the option of a "1/4 sherpa" this is a person who can carry your personal equipment up and down the mountain, so you don't have to.

Training: Upon arrival in basecamp, ALL full-service and basic-climb members are required to participate in one to two days of training in the areas of climbing techniques, glacier travel, rope fixing, ascending, descending, safety techniques, rappels (abseils), belaying, medical equipment and procedures, communications equipment, camping techniques and high-altitude cooking. For the expert and beginner alike, it is important to review these techniques in order to enhance skills, ensure safety-awareness, and work together as a team.

Safety: BOTH full-service and basic expeditions are allowed access to our extensive medical supplies, first-aid kits, medical oxygen, and a gamow bag in case of emergency. Thank you for being a well-prepared and safe team member!

 Communications: During our expedition, we regularly update several websites, such as EverestNews.com with the progress of our expedition and our team members. In this way, your loved ones and friends, colleagues, and sponsors can stay tuned to how you are progressing on your way up to and back down from the summit. Our expedition is equipped with one "walkie-talkie" radio for each member, and a satellite telephone for international voice telephone calls and emails. Members wishing to use the telephone will contribute $4 per minute of use. Not only is the phone convenient for making voice telephone calls, it is normally very easy to send and receive small emails at the rate of 2 KB (two small emails) per minute.

Group Equipment: We provide a plethora of well-used, top-quality, and time-tested equipment, group gear, and supplies, including: rope, ice, rock, and snow anchor protection; basecamp, advanced basecamp and altitude tents; cookers, fuel, high-altitude food, walkie-talkie radios, bamboo marker wands, etcetera. We now provide an individual tent for each member in basecamp, so you do not have to share.

  top notch cooks provide three very tasty meals each day. In basecamp, advanced basecamp, and Camp 1, our skillful and hard working cooks prepare three hot meals each day with a very healthy diet of fresh vegetables, cheeses, eggs, and fresh as well as tinned fruits, meats and fish (all meats and fish are prepared separately out of respect for the vegetarians in our midst). They supply you with unlimited hot-drinks, the key to successful acclimatization. We have large weather-proof kitchens and dining tents, with comfortable chairs and tables. On the mountain, we provide you with abundant and nutritious locally available quick-cooking food, so that you may prepare at least three meals and lots of hot drinks each day, in our specially designed high-altitude stoves using our butane-propane expedition mix fuel.

 Personal Equipment: Plastic double climbing boots are required, as are good quality leather walking boots (most people walk to advanced basecamp in leather boots, and then switch to plastic boots for the ice and snow on the upper mountain). You will need to bring your own personal equipment, including rucksack, iceaxe, crampons, harness, helmet, down/duvet jacket, wind/waterproof clothing, sleeping bag/mat, etcetera. You will need to bring your own daily snacks ( a wide selection of snacks are readily available in Kathmandu). In addition, we ask you to bring 2 of your favorite high-altitude freeze-dried dinners for yourself.

  Team Member Experience: Our leaders, Jay Reilly and Daniel Mazur, and our team-climbing-sherpas, are there to ensure (for our full-service members) you make it up to the summit and down safely. However, this is not a guided expedition (although you could hire your own personal guide, sherpas, etcetera), and team members are expected to be able to care for themselves in a winter-camping and climbing environment. Obviously, when climbing Nepal's "classic-climbable" 7000 metre peak, there are hazards present, and members must have knowledge of roped snow and ice climbing techniques (to protect from falling down the mountain or into crevasses). It is also required that all members will have an awareness of altitude sickness, frostbite, and the recognition of their symptoms, prevention, and treatment. Once traveling above advanced base camp, all members must be prepared to be tied into the fixed lines or roped to another team member at all times. Neither solo climbing, nor descending, are allowed above advanced base camp. Additionally, and perhaps most importantly, members need to join with a spirit of friendship, teamwork and cooperation, and be ready to work with the group and be a good "team-player".

  Fitness and Health: To participate in this expedition you must be a very fit and active walker-climber in good health. Prior to joining our group, please see your doctor and obtain the necessary permission and advice, as well as medications for travel in extremes of altitude, and also for exotic locales. Note: You can purchase all necessary medicines inexpensively with no doctor's prescription in Kathmandu. Make sure you have physically trained yourself very thoroughly before joining this climb of Asia's most famous semi-technical rock-ice-snow climb.

  Safety statement: Climbing and trekking are dangerous. You could become injured, ill, disabled, or even die. A peak may be referred to as "easy", "moderate", "climbable", "semi-technical", "accessible", etcetera, but intensive training, preparation, skills development,  and experience are necessary before tackling one of these giants. If you are unsure about what is involved, and wish to hone and develop mountain skills, we encourage you to attend our GLACIER SCHOOL.

  Introduction This climb, of what is claimed to be the "most-climbable" 7,000 meter peak in Nepal, includes all imaginable team-services, leadership, sherpas, cooks and cuisine, shared-support, and group equipment.  Pumori is a spectacular mountain, not least of all because it offers constant views of Mt Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse. It was from here that Eric Shipton helped to choose the first ascent route on Mt Everest, which Tenzing and Hillary climbed in 1953. According to David Padwa, the peak was named by Mallory during the first Everest Reconnaissance. He wanted to name a peak after his young daughter. In the Sherpa and Tibetan languages, "Pumo" means girl , and "Ri" means mountain. We made four ascents of this mountain in 1996, 2003, 2004, and 2005, placing 4, 7, 8, and 5 members on the summit, with many sherpas. The trek to basecamp travels the beautiful and famous Khumbu valley. For our full-service members, the cost of this expedition includes one of the most beautiful treks in the world. For more information and photos, please visit our Pumori trek site: Pumori Trek. Before and after the climb, we visit and tour Nepal's cultural center: Kathmandu. Pumori is unusual in that it is a high summit, a spectacularly beautiful mountain located directly across from Mt Everest, with a very easily approached and moderate route (not as technical as Ama Dablam, and easier than any other 7000 metre peak in Nepal), which should allow for a fairly reliable chance at reaching the top for everyone in the team.
We have chosen what has traditionally been the best season to climb the mountain, the spring, or "pre-monsoon",  when snow fall and bad weather is at a minimum, and the climbing route is in very good and stable condition. 

Additional information